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26th of April 2008. Hi everyone, exciting
news that Rosie's going to be interviewed by Martha Stewart over the
phone to be shown on her TV show. Rosie has appeared on Martha's show
before and being invited to her house. Martha has been very kind to
Rosie and they got on very well together. It's been really great that
the interest raised by appearing on Martha Stewart show has helped raise
the profile of cancer awareness and going to your doctor early. Which is
one of the main motivations of Rosie's (nearly complete) run around the
world. Here is Rosie's latest news update just in. Regards James
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 17:59:02 From:
"Rosie"
Subject: NEXT UPDATE -26 April
BRIEF UPDATE!
Thank you everybody so much for your concern for me. It has helped such a lot!
The ribs were still hurting last weekend, but they are fine now
I have been going for training runs pulling Icebird - It feels GREAT.
THIS IS MY PLAN!
I am going to set off next Wednesday from the Sel Hotel, Asdis's friendly charming place. I shall never forget how she came out to the desert in the
freezing cold to find me, when I first arrived in the area.
I have definitely decided that
I'm NOT going to be taken back to where I broke ribs and start again from there.
I'm going to RUN ALL THE WAY BACK TO WHERE I FELL, AND THEN KEEP ON GOING!!!!
It's only an extra 50 miles and won't take long. I want to do it to honour all those who have been so good to me while I was hurt.
It's also because of the desert's spell, that is still in my head. I HAVE to see what lies beneath those Lawrence of Arabia gleaming white dunes, as the melt
starts.
The plan is also sensible. It means I can run for a few days and be fitter by the time I reach a very big mountain pass that lies ahead before coast.
One has to run this mountain pass fairly fast, between storms. There can be ice and blowing snow here until the end of May. On Wednesday, I'll be able say goodbye to Asdis and her lovely staff at the Sel Hotel, be to use their landlines to phone my family and friends.. I just can't wait see everyone, very soon!
As I have written before, the world is a joy, but also a sacrifice. I have desperately missed the people I love . To raise cancer awareness was a war I had to fight. Now it's nearly over.
I am very touched and delighted that Martha Stewart is going to have a chat with me on the phone from New York on Wednesday afternoon just before I set off!!
It so good of her and the Show's
wonderful Associate Producer Charla Riggi, It's lovely to talk with
Martha, and also be on her show in brief segments about this world run.
It has made a big difference in raising the cancer awareness. They are
going to tape the segment on Wednesday, use photos chosen and sent by
James and Thorgeir at Charla's request by speed of light! It will be on
the Martha Show 5th MAY. Rosie END.
23rd April 2008, hi everyone, just
received the great photos of Rosie forwarded to me by David Chadderton.
They were taken a few weeks ago. Regards James
20th of April 2008. Hi everyone, sorry
that the report is a little behind schedule. Today Rosie was taken to
see some of Iceland extraordinary landscape and volcanic activity by
Thorgeir who has been very kind and helpful to Rosie. He has also
supplied me with these great photos. A huge thank you for them. Rosie's
ribs were rather painful at the end of the day so she is going to wait a
couple more days before heading off. Here is Rosie's news update.
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:38:55
From:"Rosie"
There are billons of sparkling frosty stars shining all over the ground, trying to outdo those in the sky. At 3am on 19 April, it is still several degrees below zero. I have to wrap up and keep looking out, because it is also a most magical time. The Arctic spring light is a promise that the cold cannot break.
A nearly full moon has a halo that is not round, but is a dazzling little cloud flaring out on all sides. It looks especially enchanting as the sky is already turning a royal blue. It will be dawn by about 4am
But best of all, are the very early morning Finishing Parties.
These only really began a day or so ago.
It has to be one of the greatest privileges on earth to be there when the geese, ducks and others actually arrive at Myvatn, at the end of their thousands of miles in migration.
It so moving and inspiring.
I was lying by myself in the empty car park in my fine little home, nursing my ribs. Then, suddenly there was a loud quacking and other sounds - and the dawn sky was full of birds!
I'll never forget it
There have been more and more of them, especially at this time of day.
The latest is the beautiful Red Wing Thrush. He's hopped onto Icebird's roof a few times to check things out, but mostly perches close by on the top of lamp post, singing with all his heart..
Apparently Red Wing is singing to reclaim his territory. The top of the lamp post is quite good spot - not far from the store, with its outdoor cafeteria in summer! He keeps an on eye people's plates for crumbs, and dines there for free!
I am so excited about starting again on Monday.
Thorgeir will take Icebird to the spot where I fell - crossing my track.
It should be fine, though the kind nurse gave me painkillers, just in case. It's sensible to go now, to keep my legs and the rest of me fit.
Because of the brilliant way the harness was mended, I can pull Icebird without putting strain on the ribs.
I wish the running to be a way of praying, a way of saying thank you to God and to life - and to all fabulous people, brave voyaging birds and the animals - and to the land itself around sweep of the amazing wide
world.
I want to thank the great Icelandic people, Thorgeir, Asdis, Dr Unnsteinn, the
marvelous doctor at the hospital in Husavik, Dagbjort the nurse at the Health Clinic here, Birkir, Dr. Bessi, the exceptionally kind Icelandic dentist, Erla at 66, symbol of the North,, Elva the dedicated Chief Wildlife Ranger and others.
Above all my endless gratitude to my beautiful BIG family Evie and Pete and kids, James and Janina, Bob Nancy, Victor, Patty, Rich Kevin, Diana, Marianne, Geoffrey, Nicolas.. Catherine and Nedd, Non, Steven, , Mandy Little, Sallyanne Sweeney, Dr Jay Jorgenson and many more.
I hope to say thank you through action and some progress. I am so grateful to everybody.
Rosie.
END
19th of April 2008. Hi everyone,
Rosie's weekly use update, will be on Sunday, tomorrow. Should have some
pictures as well, with any luck. All the best James.
12th of April 2008. Hi, a huge thank you to
all those who have left such kind messages in the guest book. Rosie
wanted me to thank you or as she really appreciate them. Here is Rosie's
latest report just in. Also I have some great photos that have kindly
been forwarded to me. Many thanks James
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 11:11:14
From:"Rosie"
Subject: THANKS/11 April report/ TALE OF THE TENBY TURKEYS - !!
INTRO!!!
I am overwhelmed by your letters and caring.. I've just had some of these read over the phone to me here in Icebird. I can't
believe how many new pages there are In the Guest Book!
THANK YOU JAMES FOR MAKING IT POSSIBLE. THANK YOU SAUCONY UK - AND EVERYONE FROM GREAT BRITAIN AND ICELAND TO ALASKA AND WORLDWIDE - YOU'RE GIVING ME FANTASTIC ENERGY TO GET THE RIBS HEALED - F A S T!!!!
GOOD LUCK TO ALL THOSE TAKING PART IN THE LONDON MARATHON ON SUNDAY.
I hope you have a GREAT day! London was my first marathon, and I'll always love it so much.
It made dreams I had that seemed quite impossible, all come true, just as it has done for countless thousands of others.
You can never tell what will happen when you put on your running shoes!
TALE OF THE TENBY TURKEYS.
I was quite useless at running when I was young.
The physical education instructor's eyes were full of disappointment in me , when I was about 13.
'Rose! - you'll never amount to ANYTHING AT ALL!!!!, she often said.
About 45 years later, I picked up a copy of Runner's World!
I learnt about schedules, and learnt that magic can happen in running, just when you think all is lost!
I was struggling so hard up a steep hill during a long Sunday run from Tenby to Pembroke, that the fact I'd entered the marathon seemed the sign that I'd gone beyond redemption crazy.
Then I heard running footsteps.. 2 bounding super fit looking local runners had caught me up.
It was Richard Harrison and Pat Curry.
'Hey! You're doing pretty well, they said.. .
They ran with me all the rest of the way, slowing down to stay with me!
They explained that they were members of the excellent local running Club TROT St Clears, but also they were the TENBY TURKEYS!! 'We gobble and G0!
I learnt this was just for fun, for our little town Tenby -
'Only runners who have completed a MARATHON, can become a TENBY TURKEY!' They said -
YOU CAN BE ONE TOO!
AND SO I COULD!
Like the Ugly Duckling. Except that they told me I was a Tenby Turkey, much more fun than being a swan!!
Richard had a habit of singing or reciting some funny poetry at the top of the hills. Any tricky bits, and the pair of would start joking
They made me see something forever.
Something about going for the extra when the hills are steep..
Right now I'm back inside Icebird, and the wind is howling a lullaby! I'm curled cosily in my PHD down sleeping bag.
I just like being back (in Icebird) SO much. The ribs will be better fast. I'm WILLING them strong. They wobble just a bit now.
I'm camped outside the wonderful Myvatn Tourist Information Centre. Thorgeir and Asdis have offered me beds and the finest accommodation, but now I need to keep focused and harden up again for the road. Amid much other thoughtfulness and help, Thorgeir has had Icebird's harness expertly mended,
He has kept it safe and dry in his office - and says to assure you that he'll hide it, if I go before I'm better!
BUT THIS WON'T BE LONG Rosie
END !
7th of April 2008, hi everyone, Rosie has
broken some ribs after slipping on ice and landing on the poles of her
harness. She is okay and does not want anyone to worry. She is being
well looked after but is having to take a a few weeks to recover. This
news update from Rosie I received from her just now. The first part was
written before she broke her ribs. Regards James
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 12:06:21 From:"Rosie"
Subject: 5th April report
There are only 350,000 people in Iceland, but I think every one I've met here has made a mark on me forever. They all very special.
It is impossible to begin writing this story without again thanking -
Asdis Johannesdottir, who has been so concerned for me that she calls herself my 'mum', although she is much younger than I am!
Thorgeir Gunnarsson, head of Myvatn Tourist information.
Dr Unnsteinn Juliusson of Husavik Health Care Centre
Erla and everyone at 66 NORTH way back in Akureyri.
Alfdis Sigurgeirdottir, a tiny indomitable lady of 82, who came out bent double heading into a gale to invite me in for supper, when I was camped at the edge of the little village of Reykjahlid - and others!
It's been quite a week! Progress east of Lake Myvatn was good.
I made it over the first mountain and through the desert for the first few days that were unforgettable in themselves. Deeper than the struggle is the fact that the desert has always cast a spell on wayfarers, pilgrims, warriors, those fleeing from justice, or those seeking answers, and on ordinary travellers like me!
The profound silence at night after a storm, is like a prayer. I find it is one of the most extraordinary and privileged experiences on God's earth
You can hear your heart beating. The thoughts of your whole life and many ideas go through your head.
The roar of the wind begins again, and Icebird becomes a cradle, being rocked! I almost doze off. Then it becomes more.
I grab my shoes and get out.. I have to make the decision to tie Icebird up a rocks or piece of ice. Or to take off and get going!
Yesterday at about 3am it was still cold even during this first week in April.
The cabbage I'd bought in store in Myvatn had become frozen, a big lump I kept bumping into as I got ready.. It looked very funny as 'crystalised cabbage' with its vitamins fighting for life! But the Arctic light is coming back. Sometimes this makes no difference. There are many whiteouts when you cannot tell where the land ends and the sky begins.
The morning was clear. Like the sound of the wild wind that begins after the desert's silence, the first sight of the giant dunes after the very limited visibility was especially beautiful. I thought the dunes looked like those in film of Lawrence of Arabia, except that were made of snow and a most pure shining white.
The highway was a friend. Like other desert roads, it reminds me of a shipping lane through a solid ocean.
As I got going there was the blue ice on it that has been getting thicker as the road gets more treacherous with every few
kilometers eastwards. It's the only way. Just a step or so off the road, there is deep, soft up to my
shoulders. The morning is bright, but the increasing wind means that the ice, and my feet! - are often tricky to see, as there blowing snow up to my knees.. The wind at this time was also a friend, being a westerly in my favour, shoving me along.
Sometimes a bit frightening and briskly, but good all the same.
I dug my toes in as much as I could. You can put your life in the hands of Sure Foot company's GET A GRIP cleats, but they were ones I'd had for a very long time. They lost some of their spikes on the earlier desert sections of icy razor sharp lava.
It maddened me that I had brought extra pairs.
Van who invented the cleats is a genius, and also would do anything to help you - He even had introduced me to my wonderful dentist Dr Jay Jorgenson, 1000s back on the run, in a an era that I shall never ever forget!
My extreme oversight at not replacing them maddened me...I'd kept thinking..'The journey is nearly over..the winter is nearly over! What a mistake!
It's always all down to equipment. All the equipment I have has been through the wars with me, and has saved me. I hav
e never been intrepid at all, it is my equipment that is intrepid.
Now it was down to me.. I trod as carefully as I could. I slipped a couple of times. I'd actually stopped for a breath.
I had dived into the cart.. And had writing the first time of Draft ONE!! - of this report. It read.
' A lot of time is spent trying not to fall over..'
I shouldn't say written it down!!
It made it come TRUE!!!!
Ten minutes later I crashed down and one of my cart's shafts drove into my side, and there was a cracking sound!!
- almost a carbon copy of one of the times I broke ribs in Alaska!
It wasn't too bad. I lay still awhile deciding from the pain quite what to do next.
The first vehicle of the day came back, after lying there, and stopped and helped me up. They were most worried about the blood from
my cut knuckles, but that was nothing. I said I was fine, though I used their phone to call my great ally Asdis to ask her if I might borrow cleats from her and if so, please could she get them out to me.
Alone again, I felt could be Ok.
I pulled the Icebird slowly for another mile, keeping the harness across my stomach instead of across my ribs.
I felt dizzy, but managed to tug Icebird safely off the highway.
I thought -Make or Break will be whether I can actually bend to crawl inside the cart..
This was accomplished successfully and made me feel a bit of victory, and rather better!I .
I was lighting the primus stove to heat snow water for a hotwater bottle to place against the sore spots - when Thorgeir arrived!
Thorgeir is fantastic. He come out into the desert to find me a couple of days before to take Photographs for Dave Ro bert's story for the British press, He didn't just bring his camera - he'd brought Mr Pickwick Teabags, dried fish new socks and all kinds of other treats!
He'd come back as Dave Roberts needed some more photos and instead of the 'photoshoot', took me to his doctor all the way up in Husavik.
Dr Unnsteinn Juliusson saw me at Husavik Health Care Centre even though it was the weekend, after a long drive there with Thorgeir.
He was very kind. I trusted him in the same way I had trusted the Alaska National Guard medics - and knew that his advice was not to try to stop running - but to HELP me get to the FINISH safely - and far more definitely get there that if I disregarded his words and diagnosis!!
I have broken two ribs at least near my spinal column, though not dangerous, ie not near a lung, and also have a bit of damage to the ribs at the front.
-it isn't a problem.
It would much worse for example re my run for example, if I had. broken an ankle!
The only catch is that he said setting immediately would make the injury less likely to heal quick and could cause more damage.
. I DID NOT want to run through pain and everything to take so long to get better that I'd be hobbling on arrival in Britain.I want ICEBIRD and I to arrive proudly in fine style!!!!!!!!!!
So, It will be about 4 to 6 weeks until everything is healed properly, but if I use pain as a guide I ought to be able to set off with Icebird again in around 2. Weeks.
Icebird herself can be mended, shafts and harness have needed better repair
than, my faithful duct tape for awhile now.
Icebird is safe, and also having a very short rest
I have been delightfully coaxed by Asdis to spend the first few nights FAST FORWARDING the healing of ribs in the gorgeous Sel-Hotel, but on WednesdayI shall go to live in Icebird beside Lake Myvatn, because I want stay hardy - and Icebird is such dear little home, and we're in this whole epic Iceland Adventure together.
When I'm better, my friends here will take Bird and I back to the exact spot where I fell! It is only 50 to 60 miles from there to the east coast. Meanwhile, while my ribs heal
here the BIRD'S harness is going to be sent to the professional saddlemaker in Akureyri, and her shafts will perfectly mended and wheels and all else will be checked by the great people around here. I will
also certainly get new Get a Grip ice cleats as in North East Iceland there's
no sign of melt down, the year seems to be going backwards into winter.
. VERY DEFINITELY be I'll a bouncing 100 per cent and dancing and doing high kicks for joy as I reach the FINISH in Tenby!!!!
I am getting more excited than ever about all this. The ribs will make hardly any difference to the plans coming together, which I shall outline in my next report.
I think the Icebirds will be doing the dancing on tables all the way down to Wales too!
IT WILL BE QUITE A SIGHT!!!! Rosie.
END
1st of April 2008. I have just been sent
these great photos, not quite sure who took them but much appreciated as
always. James
31st of March 2008. Hi sorry the news update is a little delayed.
Conditions are very wild and wintry and I think it is an amazing
achievement that Rosie is able to produce these great reports that have
been tapped out on a small blackberry device by torch light. Covering
the huge distances that she has been, I know it very tiring and there
are so many little jobs she has to do, even making a drink of coffee
involves many tasks. Fingers crossed they should be some photos coming
along soon. I hope you enjoy a Rosie's latest update. Regards James
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 08:20:43 From :"Rosie"
Subject: THANK YOU WONDERFUL MYVATN!! Report 30 March.
Myvatn, Iceland
Fierce blowing snow flies around the immense ash cone crater of Hverfall. Beneath is a white icy cold desert interspersed with mesmerising shapes and lumps of lava sticking up from the deep snow. The latter look like a beautiful lost race of people whose secrets will never be told. Though they are razor sharp, and very real!
There are also many eerie pseudo craters, some on the islands on Lake Myvatn beside Hverfall. They were created by the steam when water and boiling lava met. Mighty Krafla, one of the kings of Icelandic volcanoes lies slightly north of the lake. It is all part of a geothermal area where the molten earth's interior is only a few miles from the crust.
At 1000 metres beneath the snow covered lava field, the temperature is a 200C, and getting hotter with every
meter down from there. Yet a few nights ago it was -15C where I was.
Back to melting snow water for drinking,, since the streams were still frozen.
Even the insulated interior of Icebird. Is covered with ice.- There are tasty lumps of frozen bread for breakfast! The cuisine has all the delights of being prepared inside a freezer.
I suspected one recent morning that my eyelashes had also frozen together again, as they used to do in Siberia and Alaska
But it was probably just laziness that made it hard to open my eyes!
During the stormy 10 days and nights in the open between Akureyri and Lake Myvatn, I was dreaming of
lovely things like hot shower, but most of all, I. wanted to recharge my batteries and buy minutes so I could talk, talk and TALK to beloved family and friends...
Something about being so close to the FINISH, yet with a bit of a challenge still remaining, has made me miss them and long for them even more. It will be a joy beyond words to see everybody. I am not ashamed of the pain of this longing I think it's for same for anyone who has been a big journey.
Thank you so much to Asdis Erla Johannesdottir and husband Yngvi Ragnar Kristjansson owners of Sel-Hotel Myvatn for the most wonderful and fabulous help and kindness.
Asdis came out into the ice covered lava field to find me the last night before I reached the tiny settlement of Skutustadir and invited me to stay at their most charming friendly hotel.
They insisted I remain for 2 days, would not allow me to pay, put me up in a beautiful room, did all my laundry, fed me delicious meals and put in a LOT of tender loving care. A a slight cough I'd got vanished as if by magic! Best of all I was able to make phone calls, and charge up all the batteries.
It was also great fun to meet David Chadderton and Lindsay Wright from .Macclesfield. We all went on an amazing tour of Myvatn with Illugi Mar Jonsson, a guide famous for being one of Lake Myvatn's special 13 Father Christmas, who are known as the Dimmuborgum. The kids from Myvatn put a shoe out for a present EVERY night for all the 13 nights before Christmas!!!!!
Asdis and Yngvi also arranged for their photographer friend Birker to take some photos of Icebird to send to you all, and to journalist Dave Roberts who has been good enough to keep trying to get in touch.
So a huge amount was achieved in the 2 days.
Re my plans, I have ONLY 90 miles to go in Iceland, mostly through the open lavafield and desert along the lonely winter road.
No more towns until within about 15 miles of the Iceland Finish. I 'm bouncing with energy and well stocked up, so that's fine.
It's very stormy again. The prediction is whiteouts and gales for the whole
week. So we'll be very careful. Icebird has learnt to 'heave to' beautifully..
She is shaking hard now, making the Blackberry jump, but holds true. I am getting great trust in her. We're getting there bit by bit.
The situation regarding ferries from Iceland to Scotland. Is more difficult.
Getting to Scotland is a challenge..
The first scheduled ferry to Scrabster is on 18 June. I hope so much that the sweet little Icebird and I MIGHT be able to buy a berth on a friendly fishing boat or a cargo vessel before then...
It's typical of this round the world effort - that it's going to be edge of the seat suspense and excitement
RIGHT TO THE END!!
I am VERY keen to get to the FINISH in Tenby!!
I think the Iceland, Scotland,Tenby stretch will be a huge adventure.
I shall be extremely grateful for help and information about boats It's GOING TO BE A VERY B E A U T
I F U L SUMMER IN GREAT BRITAIN THIS YEAR.
CAN HARDLY WAIT TO BE THERE!!
! Rosie
END
22nd of March 2008. Here is the latest news update from Rosie. It's
still very tough going but it is great to think that Rosie will be back
in the UK in a few months.
Just a brief hello to wish you -
. VERY HAPPY EASTER!
I have to get over the. Vikurskard Pass before the high wind comes back
Way back in 1999 when I ran across the icelandic lava desert for Runner's World, I was amused to learn that Icelandic mountaineers call it -
'DOING AN ELVIS!!!' - when your legs shake uncontrollably in fear!!
It's just as true now!
The high mountain passes in Iceland are dangerous, because even in a land like this where following weather forecasts is the vital way of life, conditions can change so suddenly. The people tell you with a mixture of misgiving and pride -
'In Iceland, anything can happen!'
On Thursday, there was driving blinding snow..
A local policewoman on her way to help the rescue vehicle assisting motorists stranded on the mountain pass, said the weather would get much worse, before improving after midnight.
The pass was closed . The fact that Icelandic motorists used to winter driving needed help was reason enough.
Everything turned out Ok. One of the police returned to commend me for sheltering safely tied to a rock until it was over. He said nobody had been injured.
The pass has reopened. Traffic bounced by on the giant balloon tyres that 'float' on the snow.
. The icy sun came out. The exquisite white mountains reflected into the Eyjafjordur fiord.. Wild duck swam in the half frozen inlets.. Some reflections made it look as if these beautiful perky ducks were actually swimming among the mountain peaks!
Nature pretended that the storm hadn't happened, and you could almost believe it.
I got half way up the mountain.
Now the wind is increasing again.
Conditions are often diverse, but I think that the Cold World is the world's oldest commonwealth. From the land of the Eskimos to the land of the Vikings, the Law is the same.
You have to get going while you can!
I just want to say as always that your comments and lovely letters mean so much.
A special hello to Selina Nylander, who has been on my mind a lot in gratitude. You made such a very important part of my dream come true by helping me get to Greenland.
Also hello to Rory Coleman, a very remarkable long distance runner and lovely person.. I had the pleasure of sharing a tent in the Sahara Desert circa 2000 with Rory, Monica, Mary and other friends during the Marathon des Sables. Their company was great fun, and they taught me a lot.
Thank you again so very much to UK Runner's World, for always being there for me. I could not even have begun this journey without you.
So, I just want to say have a wonderful weekend. I'll be thinking of everybody. I love you Evie, Jim, Pete, Michael Mighty Thor, Blue, Eyes, Catherine, Non, Professor Nedd, Marianne,Nancy, Victor, Patty Rich, Diana, Kevin Bob - ALL my fabulous family and friends everywhere..
Rosie.
End
15 of March 2008, Hi, I have been trying to remember over the last
four and a half years, if Rosie has actually had any easy bits during
her world run, in regard to weather and conditions, I'm not sure if I
can think of any. I thought of hoping that things might get little
easier as she got nearer home, no such luck I'm afraid. All is well but
it is very cold and windy travelling over the exposed areas.
Once again I have had some fabulous photos sent to me by Jósef
Hólmjárn. They were taken on the 7th of March at Langidalur ca. 15 km
east of Blönduós. Thank you very much for these.
From Rosie.
It feels brilliant to have arrived in Akureyri, a magical city on the N66 Latitude.
Along the Arctic North Coast the whales leap and own the place, and a few daring Polar Bears ride the ice floes all the way from the North Pole.
Icebird in league with the wild gales was longing to fly, but our progress got slower than expected as I had a touch of frostbite in the old injury, but the toe is ok now, and it's just tremendous to be here.
I'm forever grateful to the fabulous Alaska National Guard medic who taught me how to deal with the frostbite if it ever came back.
I can' t wait to go dancing on ALL MY 10 TOES when I touch foot in Scotland!!.
I am going to find a place to stay in Akureyri and have a solid go at working out ferries and time frame for Scotland and then shall organise the route for the circa 800 down Great Britain to MY OWN DOORSTEP in our beautiful Tenby in Wales!.
So, I'll write a bit more on Monday, by which time I hope to have gathered useful information.
Akureyri, major city of the north, is a great place for getting the details of ferries, and for info on the best route for the remainder of my run in Iceland.
I'm about to head off to achieve my dream of a BLISSFUL hot tub in
Akureyri..
It's going to be fantastic. I HAVE been washing in my fine blue plastic bowl with a little snow water heated on the brave small PRIMUS.
That's always an exciting challenge inside tiny Icebird. Even with the benevolent spirit of Houdini to help me to do the contortions to wash my back! .
Lucky there aren't any cameras around for a 'fly on the canvas'! TV series
THE HOT TUB WILL BE HEAVEN!! END.
Rosie
8th of March 2008, hi here is the latest
news report just in from Rosie. Sounds like it's quite tough going,
these gales are real grind to get through. There has been a lot of
interest concerning Rosie's arrival back in the UK, Scotland to be
precise. As soon as I hear from Rosie about her arrival dates I shall
let everyone know. Regards James
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 11:18:17 :
From Rosie
Subject: Report from Iceland,
I am struggling in the mountains, and my batteries are low. .
I just want to say how excited I am that my co ordinates this morning. -are N65 30. 688. W019 45.649 - Getting so close to Greenwich, and getting closer ALL the time!
Thank you all so much for the kind thoughts and encouragement. Icebird sends her greetings too!
The Bird is doing brilliantly. She got hit by a flying pumice rock yesterday and the canvas got slightly torn, but is fine., She just needed a little patch! She's like a kid with a graze, and a little piece of sticky plaster!
Special hello to the people of Blonduos, especially the children at the Elementary School, and the wonderfully kind staff at the N I Service Station.
I arrived there after one of the worst gales so far. Driving snow had changed to deluges of rain and flooding on Blonduos bridge. I'd had to wade up to the knees. The wet quickly froze. So I arrived with feet encased in ice. Like Cinderella on her way to the Ball!
- Except that I WANTED to lose these glass slippers.
Anyway, the staff sorted me out with hot food for me and radiators for my socks, and all became princes and princesses forever in my eyes
Thank you so much to them, and to Josef Holmjarn the Seismic Scientist who sent photos to the Website of my progress over one of the mountain passes, and who stopped his vehicle again yesterday and gave me food left over from his field trip.
Also hellos to sledders Bill Morrison and Rik Crabtree, who stopped en route to catch their plane back to the UK to say hi. It was a really lovely boost.
Best of ALL, even though this battery is not v good, Eve managed to email to me some fantastic photos of my grandson Michael as 'MICHAEL THE MIGHTY THOR2'..
I KNOW that he's also been beamed to this icy region, and is around in the mountains somewhere, looking out for me!
He'd like the horses! The Icelandic horses are still my sweet amusing allies. They have been teaching me lessons! Some say these animals don't get picked up by the gales because they have little anchors on their hooves. I think they survive - because they have the anchors in their BRAINS.
When the storm comes, they simply gallop off and shelter the leeward side of the mountain..
, I'm doing the same. I stayed the night poised behind one of the peaks.. Just out of shot of the wind.
Today everything looks much better. The sky is clearer, and the wind has
eased. I am anxious to get to the small place about 13 miles from here called Varmahl. I hope to find a phone there to that I can sort the exciting logistics - of how fairly soon to get a ferry -
TO SCOTLAND THE BRAVE!!!!!!! Rosie.
END
2nd of March 2008. Hi everyone, happy
mothers day everyone. Have a great report from Rosie and also some
photographs kindly sent in by Jósef Hólmjárn of the The Icelandic
Meteorological Office. Had a chat with Rosie yesterday on the satphone.
She is trying to make as much progress towards the next village of
Blonduos as possible while the weather is still good. There are report
of severe weather in the next few days. It is 50 km away so fingers
crossed she manages to arrive in time. As you will see from the map it
is greater to see that Rosie is nearly back home. As soon as I know the
exact times and date I will let you all know. But Rosie still has 500 km
to travel in variable conditions, so I can't give any precise times
right now. Regards James
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 19:12:48
Subject: MISS ICELAND DECIDES! - SO I HAVE TO RUN WHILE I. CAN!!!! -
very brief report! From Rosie
Report 1 March
There have been storms over the last weeks that picked buses off the highway as if they were feathers.
The coldest are the NE storms straight from the North Pole across the Arctic Sea..
Today instead!- the sun going to shine with ALL its heart.
Crystal mountains and snowy wild landscape, and frozen waterfalls like the chandeliers of an ice palace, sparkle as the sun rises. Even the thick frosted manes and tails of the tough little Icelandic horses become a fantasy pink, then scarlet before turning all shades of gold, while I'm drink my coffee looking out at the sublime world just after the dawn.
The colours seem to have more strength and power in the same way that the wind does!! Everything in Iceland is 1 x 100 times. As I get ready, the horses who live in great herds in North Iceland, and, are the only animals hardy enough to be out in the fields around here, gallop up merrily to inspect me as has become their habit! - Snorting like little warrior horses.
They definitely all look golden or even pink in this
light. Even their whiskers and forelocks gleam as they are icy. The horses could be from a legend. Perhaps I am running through one of the Iceland Sagas for real.
If it is to a happy end, then I better get going!
I am at N65 21.11
W020 55.17
It is just 198kms to Aukreyri
Approx. 500KMS of ICELAND LEFT TO RUN!!!!
Depending on whether I make a detour via interior, and location and time of FIRST SPRING BOAT TO SCOTLAND!
Much has to be worked on, but it is very remote here and I do not have a phone, except for the Sat Phone for emergencies..
The next town is Blonduos in about 50km
The reality is that this distance could take me one or two days to do - or it could take a week
There are 2 storms forecast in the next few days..
So the sunny weather won't last
So I am off now because EVERYTHING in winter here depends on taking the breaks.
Just want to say thank you to dear Geoff and Inna who flew all the way from the UK to see me yesterday.. It was just a very brief visit along the roadside. They rented a car and drove it over the desolate exposed VOLTAVORDUHEIDI mountain in high wind to find me and brought
badly needed equipment - Like my 44th pair of Saucony shoes, heat pads and other treasures..
Geoff and Inna were absolutely fantastic. They couldn't stay longer, because they had to get back over the mountain to Reykjavik in their small non four wheel drive vehicle before nightfall, as it would then have been far too dangerous.
I would like thank to Andrew Sainsbury of Saucony UK for continued most generous sponsorship and to Dr Brian Welsby for sports supplements
Re nutrition, it is important to say a big thank you to my dear friend Nancy Rodriguez for her advice and kindness in so many ways.
The greatest boon in Iceland where I have been very remote, has been using her tip on how keep eating well during the long distances between shops.
Nancy's Food Marketing Support Services has a brilliant reputation internationally, but her wisdom regarding nutrition has also meant a lot to an ordinary solitary runner
- like me!
Thanks to Nancy, I now try to buy first cold press Olive Oil. One bottle of the best lasts for ages.
So it isn't heavy as per how little you need each day, and how good it is for health. I also follow the Nancy philosophy of buying wholewheat pasta with Omega3 in its
ingredients. Plus, I have fresh ginger and garlic, which is useful as it is very compact to store. I can protect the garlic from freezing and thus becoming damaged, by popping it into a sock for incidence!!
The only thing is you have to remember WHICH socks. Or the running could suddenly become very painful! I often add herbs and a few dried greens to the spaghetti, instead of synthetic flavour cubes as a basis.. I can carry a lot of all this. I also like to keep some oats and honey, and dried fish. Though it is so simple, this is real food and easy to cook. I eat everything else too of course if I'm near shops, Though fairly healthy food pays in 'engine power' For long journeys I keep it mostly to the above, and I feel great on it.
So! Again - thank you so much Nancy, Bob, Patty, Kevin and all the much loved family in USA - and to my darling Evie, Pete, James,
Michael and Lucy Blue Eyes, Marianne and clan Catherine, Non, Nedd, Lila..-
Ann Rowell, Everyone in Tenby
Kath Garner in North Wales...
Steven Seaton and all at Runner's World
Steve Holland and Giles Dyson..
The o'Briens,
Ruth...
Florin.
. Mandy..
And ALL -Those From the 4 Corners of the Earth!.......my family ARE also...
Non and clan in beautiful Scotland
Liza and JIM AND liZ
Lila. Rick, Grace and Tilly.
People inRussia......USA...Canada..Greenland..Iceland, Ireland, Great Britain all of Europe
..
I am overwhelmed.
I thank everybody more than I can ever say for your help, photos, lovely comments and letters.
I could do nothing regarding any news getting to you all, without James my Rock and wonderful Master of the Web!
Rosie
THE END.
23rd of February 2008, hi everyone, Rosie
has had a lot of excitement this last week, conditions have been very
bad indeed. At several times she close to having Icebird blown away by
the extreme gusts of wind. Which would have been absolutely disastrous.
I had a great chat with Rosie last night and she is completely on top of
everything. She has done a really great news update which I hope you
enjoy. Regards James
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 14:23:19
From Rosie
Subject: Brief report31
Another storm is coming.
I have to beat it.!!
I was lucky when Icebird capsized.
Safest thing would have been to let go of her, but I couldn't do so. I would have lost her. We were being blown sideways into a deep gully at the bottom of mighty and icy Skardsheidi mountain. The wind gusting more like the blasts from a gun shot, than just the Hammer of Thor as it belted us.
- I could NOT stop!!
Wednesday was just the typical winter Iceland weather. if you didn't feel the power and hear roaring and howling you could still think you were in a fairyland,
These mountains of purest white are wrapped in a thousand images of shining flying snow. This is extraordinary and I've seen it nowhere else. I feel that being in Iceland in winter is not only the penultimate stage of my run, it is also like having run around the world to get to a different planet. So no
wonder I've worn out 43 pairs of shoes!.
Rocks are handy for tethering oneself as there are no trees, but this time, I could see nothing at all that was solid!
The highway ran between the mountain and sea.. I definitely did have fear that brave little Icebird would end up sailing! - or FLYING!!!
I couldn't hold her even after I'd righted her.. We were taking off!!!!-
SO I SAT DOWN IN HARNESS!!!
- found that SITTING ON THE GROUND BEHIND A NICE BIG LUMP LIKE AN ANCHOR WORKED JUST FINE. -
After awhile, there was a little lull - and I was able to get going against. The only damage was that the shafts had got bent.
The next time it happened was a bit more awkward as I got blown too near the main part of the highway, where the trucks were jackknifing and cars all over the place. A kind driver whose name I will never know helped pull Icebird to a solitary small tall building, perhaps
an electricity sub station. The only building for miles.
He did not think I could make it to the next town, maybe for days, and came back with food for me. Before disappearing again suddenly as if he and his vehicle had just been imagined. I am
so grateful . I had not even time to ask his name to write and thank him, before he went!
That's what people in Iceland are like.
I think they are Vikings, with golden hearts!
Or just maybe this wonderful Icelander was one of the elves!!! They are well known in Iceland..!!!
Anyway, I did get going that evening., I towed a rock that work as sea anchor to d prevent the capsizing.
Icebird got slightly damaged again in all this excitements Her brake doesn't work and needs a new cable, and her shafts got more bent, but the latter have now been mended.
In all, Icebird is proving. To be pretty tough. She's great.
I've had ALL kinds of help and encouragement people along the way, wherever there ARE people, including weather forecasts all the way from Grace in Greenland re Iceland, as well as good local updates from organic Icelandic farmers on the
fjords. Kjristen and his Swiss wife Dora, keep cows that are Viking Cows - A pure bred for all those hundreds of years.. The toughest cows on this planet!!
- Except maybe for those in Siberia - see my Russian Notes at the end!!!
I have get going The Forecast emailed tome on the Blackberry tells that weekend weather will be fairly bad.
Storm force wind from the North East will be heading us.
I have errands still to do It does pay a little time to get going. The battle of the day is won or lost according to the preparation before one sets off..
I have to heat water for my 'hotwaterbottle'' - It was a great through when I discovered how good it was to keep a couple of clean new Coman fuel bottles to use as hotwaterbottles for my feet, Unlike the traditional rubber hotwaterbottles, these are exactly the right size to pop iinto my shoes or boots, or pull over my socks for a little while to warm the footwear before setting off!
It's an EXQUISITE sensation to put on the warm socks!!
I'll never take anything like this for granted again!!!! This is total decadence! I. The Weather is not so cold out of the wind, but the wind chill is quite nasty. My toes having been playing up a bit.
So, I must end - just want to say I headed off yesterday from a sweet, friendly place, called Borgarnes. And the 'HAMAR GOLF COURSE AND HOTEL- where they would take no
money, mended Icebird, did my laundry..
Dried out all my wet or frozen possessions - and treated as if I was a film star instead of a weary wet and cold hooligan. I even had a volcanic hot tub soak... I LOVE ICELAND.. Borganes was also the first place with
food shops, after 10 days of slow going in the wilds. Next 'landfall' will be Akureyri' which is about 150 miles away. There are two mountains to climb with Icebird.. I'm going to try ballasting her. I shall figure it out!
Before I end this, I feel like telling everybody that I have been thinking very hard about my book - ..and have found a few old Russian notes as follows-
I share them with you because Russia has been on my mind. It's like a hundred years since the run through Siberia, but is as vivid as yesterday. The hardship of life there is especially devastating in memory, It puts my 'Dances with Storms' in the happy and free, beautiful and Iceland into true perspective!
Maybe, I am reminded of Siberia because Iceland is not just a country, it a way of thinking.
The spirit and philosophy of Icelanders though in such different ways to Siberia, brings it back.
Less than a hundred years ago was desperately hard in Iceland too. For incidence, there's an account in one of the museums in town, about a farmer who broke his arm and made an iron cage with bolts to hold it in place, so that he could still
scythe the hay, enabling his animals to get by in the winter.
I guess the spirit wherever one finds it in the world can be defined by one word --
COURAGE
-.
' NOTES FROM RUSSIA
One thing you learn from people in Siberia is not to give in to despair too easily. A realist has to be an optimist! they always tell you. - It's the song of every
village where life is hard, and it is a lesson that is inescapable, even with just makeshift knowledge of Russian..
Only dreamers can afford pessimism. For real, even the most critical problems need to face, and attitude is God's gift as an emergency cure. The mind is one's own path. Nobody can shut off this freedom unless one let's them. I met the people born in Stalin's concentration
camps. They said that few survived told jokes in the midst of hell to try to keep going, when they hjad built the Road of Bones at -60 to -71.29 Celsius in rags, eating a diet of 2 loaves of bread a month and a few grams of dried potatoes a day..
Stalin didn't need gas chambers He let the cold and hunger do the job.
I met the sons and daughters of those that made it, as they are still living in the area today, far too poor ever to leave. The average life expectancy is 57 and heading down again, because the old age pension
for Moscow is just 10 dollars a month, and that's only if you have a home. As I learnt
from the homeless people in some Siberian mountains, you have to make the tea from tree bark and spend all summer hunting for berries, and desperately fish, and plant what they can under rough shelters to overcome the conditions.
I understood and saw much more hardship than I could bear, yet I was often so inspired too. Isn't it strange how those with least in life can give you the most? I met some of the finest people I have ever known. Including some actually on the run from the law today, and held to be most dangerous. But they were great to me.
They all made a mark on me for ever, even though I was just passing through.
The Siberians often laughed and swore that their minds had stayed free, so they are rich!
So they just get on with life..
They make beat up old shacks into steam banoes, or, to wash in... They have to use the outdoor latrine even at -60, but laugh
about their private parts freezing in the process, and hang a picture in there sometimes to cheer you up!.
Above all, Siberian people hate to be gloomy..
They just hate to look as if they need help. They don't have many clothes, but they keep everything mended and spotlessly clean. Pride
and honor mean everything
I just don't know how they do it. you can see hunger in Siberia, but you won't see a dusty house.
Usually, they somehow manage to keep the children fed.. They have all kinds of good tricks. Making. plastic
greenhouses out of tiny pieces of plastic, even ancient old shopping bags, acquired from somewhere, on a distant shopping trip, to grow the vegetables better.
As for the 'farming', Sometimes they can keep a cow or two, but the cowshed gets very cold. One family I met had made a nice coat for their cow out some of their precious bed blankets - to make her warm and cosy, so that she'd be encouraged to keep on giving a cup of milk or so for the children all through the winter!.......
So! I have thinking about this.
All that happened is overwhelming..
It certainly has changed my life.
THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR WONDERFUL COMMENTS.. I love them.
MUST GET RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!
Rosie
End.
16th of February 2008. Hi everyone. Once
more Rosie has plunged into another grueling stage of her world run with
gusto. As you will see from her report Rosie has 1237 km to travel
across Iceland. And conditions are going to be very tough with a lot of
cold weather. Communication is a little difficult she wanted me to say
as she needs to conserve battery power in cold conditions when she is
out in the snowy wilderness. Here are the latest news reports that she
has sent me. Regards James
From Rosie
... I am among Thor's wild giant snow covered mountains and
volcanoes in Iceland! All is well.
Icebird and I feel small here, and rain, sleet and stormy weather make the going slow. Each step is serenaded by Nature's mighty orchestra, the thunder of ice breaking up, and the raging waterfalls just released from winter prison. - and above all, the HOWLING North East wind.
There's so much more to say, but I have to do it bit by bit, as the nights are still so long, and it's cold, and I have the instinct just now to keep going..and going............. It is so very exciting to be at this stage of my run...'
Rosie
14th Feb 2008
ICEBIRD HAS ARRIVED IN ICELAND!!!
!! Many thanks to DHL IN REYKJAV IK AND WORLDWIDE for a fabulous effort,, to Geoff Hall in the UK, who co
coordinated DHL, and to Bob Collins who sent tracking reports that helped so much. Also - very special thanks to Grace Neilsen in Greenland for all the assistance n getting me through Greenland, and on to Iceland tomeet my famous rig!
My gratitude forever to Russ and Mel O'Brien in Salisbury, Canada- who built Icebird's crate with such huge tender loving care!!!!!! They called it Icebird's O'BRIEN
GARAGE. The 'O'brien Garage' nearly blew DHL REYKJAVIK away, The box plus ICEBIRD weighed over 600lbs, I think FORT KNOX could be another name it! But it saved Icebird, who can't be dismantled. She arrived looking like a star in perfect condition!!
I am so very excited to have her back. It is also totally fantastic and amazing to be in the same time zone as GREAT BRITAIN “ for the first time for nearly 5 years!
It blows my mind completely! I just can't believe it Icebird and I have had the most brilliant welcome here in Reykjavik Icebird was wheeled right inside the gleaming beautiful Loftleider hotel after being invited to stay free of charge.
Late today I set off, and am now camped by the side of the road ion the way out of town. I'm all curled up in Icebird! a - planning to have a little sleep, and then get going I am so very, very happy.. This my little home.. . I'm parked outside a flower shop after asking the owner's permission to be there. I think this will be a busy day for them! Reykja ik is definitely a romantic city, like a northern Paris!
I have exactly 1237kms to run to get to the north east point of Iceland.
THEN I'll be coming back to Britain!!!
The night wind is gusting up. ..I can hear Icebird's harness shaking - ICEBIRD IS IMPATIENT TO BE OFF TO THE ARCTIC COAST!!
I think it will be a wild run!
I can hardly sleep for excitement - so I might as well set off right now!..
Rosie End.
8th of February 2008, hi everyone, Rosie is weather permitting,
flying to Iceland tomorrow or the next day. The weather conditions in
Greenland have been extreme. But Rosie has found it an extraordinary and
awarding experience. She has had very warm kindness and hospitality and
particularly wanted me to thank Grace Nielsen who has sent me these
wonderful photos and wrote me this charming piece about Rosie. DHL have
been really helpful. They have been sponsoring Rosie for the movement of
her equipment, throughout her a whole run and have sent Icebird to
Iceland. These four little messages are from Rosie's satellite phone.
HI EVERYBODY, I AM IN KULUSUK, EAST GREENLAND POSITION N65 34.763.
W037 08.993. POLAR BEAR IN VILLAGE 2 DAYS AGO.(CONT)
KULUSUK VILLAGE APPEARED LIKE GHOST IN THE WHITE BLIZZARD BLOWING
SNOW AS I WALKED THERE YESTERDAY BUT HAS POPULATION OF 300 V SWEET..
MERRY AND VERY TOUGH PEOPLE SUPPLIES SHIPPED IN ONCE A YEAR IN AUG,
AS SURROUNDED BY PACK ICE OCT THRO TO JULY. R (SATPHNE
PLAN 2 FLY ICELAND, WEATHER PERMITTING. 3 CHEERS DHL FOR FABULOUS
HELP. ICEBIRD WAITING 4 ME IN REYJAVIK. MANY THANKS. ROSIE
Thank you Grace for these photos this piece you wrote about Rosie.
Regards James
Greetings to all of Rosie's friends from Nuuk, Greenland. We, the
staff at Nuuk Tourism, have had the great pleasure of assisting Rosie
during her visit here to our capital city. Rosie flew into Nuuk on
Thursday, onboard a local 50 seater prop plane from Narsarsuaq in the
South of Greenland. Rosie would probably have loved to have been able to
walk the distance, but alas that would have been impossible.
There are no roads or even paths connecting the cities in Greenland.
The terrain is some of the most rugged wilderness in the world, and the
only way to travel is by boat or by air, so Rosie arrived by air. I
instantly spotted Rosie coming off the plane. A lone foreigner, amidst a
group of local passengers, beaming a wide smile across the tarmac from
the plane to the airport building, she was easy to spot.
Although we had spoken with Rosie on the phone, on several occasions
before her arrival, none of us were truly prepared for the whirlwind of
positive energy that is Rosie. Fearless, charming and kind with a
wonderful sense of humour, and as it also turned out, completely
oblivious to our cold weather.
Rosie had been invited to stay at the home of a local family. We
persuaded her that that was a good thing to do, so Rosie stayed there
for the first night. However not wanting to succumb to frivolities of
civilization, Rosie was determined to spend the following nights
outdoors under the stars in her little tent, pitching it close to the
tourist office. I quite irreverently referred to her very practical
little one-woman tent as a body condom.
When the office closed for the weekend, I managed to convince Rosie
to accept some frivolous living by pitching her tent on my porch. In
this manner she was able to enjoy a few home cooked meals, a spot of
television, and a hot shower, and I had the privilege of getting to know
more about this amazing woman.
Every so often, when Rosie talked about a particular event in her
life, snippets of other fascinating adventures would bubble to the
surface in her narratives, making me exclaim: "Wait. Wait, go back!
You did what?!" Often facing dangerous situations and sometimes
dangerous people, Rosie never-the-less tells her life stories with a
wonderful humorous twist to them, resulting in gales of laughter
erupting from her attentive listeners.
During her visit here, Rosie was the highlight one evening, on our
prime time Greenland national television news. The local television
station in Nuuk also featured Rosie on its program, and a national
newspaper is running an article about her in the next issue. Rosie had a
nice meeting with the local Greenland cancer awareness group. She paid
our hospital a visit and talked with staff there dealing with the cancer
problem.
Every one who has come into contact with Rosie has been in awe of her
achievements. Living where we do, with seven to eight months of winter
weather, we could be considered a hardy people, but few of us are
willing to trade places with Rosie, preferring the comfort of a cozy
home and a warm bed while shivering at the thought of Rosie out in the
cold, settling in for the night in the little tent, like tonight with
temperatures dropping to minus 17 degrees Celsius, app. 4 degrees
Fahrenheit.
The Nuuk Tourism staff spent a fun last evening with Rosie at our
Thai food restaurant enjoying some local and foreign cuisine, before
dropping her off at her frozen boudoir for the night.
Tomorrow, February 6th, God and Air Greenland permitting, i.e.
weather and technical problems, I head out at the crack of dawn to pick
Rosie up and take her to the airport for the next leg of her continuing
adventure across the world. Her new journey will take her over the Ice
Cap, a two hour flight to the East Coast of Greenland, and then another
two hours across the water to Iceland.
Rosie leaves behind new found friends in Greenland, who will feel the
void when she is gone from our midst. Rosie, we wish you Godspeed,
success and safe travels, and we thank you for including Greenland in
your around the world run.
Grace J. Nielsen
2nd of February 2008. Hi, here is the
latest news update from Rosie. Greenland sounds like an extraordinary
place. I hope you enjoy the her latest report. Regards James.
From Rosie
My first big dream in Greenland was to see the
Viking settlement on the edge of the Kuussuup Glacier,
in Southern Greenland..
How very lucky I was to achieve it a few days
ago.
The Viking settlement on the other side of the
glacier is said to be fascinating in the summer. Yet
in winter, with the visibility almost down to inches,
it was an experience so moving and beautiful, that it
will be impossible to forget for the rest of my life.
As so often, it is failure that opens doors.
I had tried to get there the day before. It's
only a 5 hour trek or so from the little settlement
of Narsarsquaq, but I had set off a bit late and it
had got dark before I was half way across the ice. My
tent and my camp was back at Narsarsquaq, so was the
tempting hospitality of Narsarsuaq Hotel, which is
like an oasis in this tiny settlement of today!, if I
wished for it! I had to get back. Because although
the northern stars were so bright and the moon was
shining with a rainsbow ring around, but it was cold
at -29, too cold to be without my accommodation!! I
missed Icebird!
So, I went back, under the moonlight, and it was a
lovely night in itself.
Next morning, I HAD to give it another go, as it
was my last morning in Narsarquaq before flying on to
Nuuk. I set off early. It it was snowing, but the
plus was that the snow made things warmer, it was
only -9, and the weather was supposed to clear later.
Instead, for some hours it snowed more heavily. It
was quite pleasant, as the snow was a blanket against
the cold, and I had my GPS, and knew the way.
Robert Frost's 'The Road Less Traveled'.. has always been one of my
favorite
poems... and it has struck me more than once on this
run around the world that the real road of life is as
always in the head - AND IN THE SPIRIT.
Just as well
on the world's largest island that is 80 per cent ice,
and. so famous for no roads at all between its few
towns
I could see nothing. Except my feet! If I looked
down I could just make out my snowy feet taking small
careful steps over the amazing ancient ridges of solid
wavelets of ice of the glacier.. It was a funny and
eerie feeling. I just kept thinking.. How long has
this ice on which I am walking been there? In these
days of global warming, for how much longer will it
survive? I was thinking how the mightiest faces of
nature can be the most vulnerable.
Maybe I am walking
on a time capsule. Lost in thought, I kept on through
the snow, feeling happy and comfy at being on the move
again. Greenland is unique in many ways. To me it is
also unique as it is the only country I cannot run
right across in the winter - though I might seek
permission from the Danish Polar Society to try to
cross the icecap in summer one day..
Meanwhile I had
missed being on the move, so the trek was fun, even if
I didn't see much today...
Then SUDDENLY - right in front of me - like magic up
off the edge of the glacier I saw some buildings. I
WAS THERE!!!
Visibility had not cleared...it all seemed just
feet away. I didn't climb up. To see the
settlement from the glacier was enough. It was so
fantastic.
I could not see clearly, but I think the atmosphere of the place was even stronger through the beautiful,
surprising of the indistinct outlines...
No time to stop to wait for hours for the
weather to clear as the forecast had predicted..
no photo shoot.
I took the pictures in my mind!
And today's community in Narsarsquaq who number
about 150 persons are very very special too.
I loved being in the wonderful Narsarsuaq community
for five days and meeting everybody..
Now I am in Nuuk!!! Thank you to Grace J Neilsen
Assistant Manager of Nuuk Tourism for being superb and
very generous in welcoming me in every way - far
beyond the brief of her job!
And, thank you to all the great people I have
already met in Nuuk
It is a truly buzzing vibrant fun capital city of
15,000 most friendly, charming people!!!!
I know I shall have many adventures here. I hope
to run a marathon here, and do a talk in aid of the
local cancer charities -
I will fill every moment to bursting...
It is cancer society, and to visit the Institute
of nature and learn about the wildlife for the local
Cancer Sc Next week - I will be tell you all about
my amazing experiences in NUUK:
Next week also, I will be able to outline the full
plan for the rest of the run HOME.
ICELAND - and GREAT BRITAIN!!!!! - HERE I COME!!!!!
-
NO FUGITIVE EVER WAS SO GRATEFUL TO BE 'ON THE RUN'
AS I AM!!!
Even if I lived to be 1000, I wouldn't have
enough time to adequately thank everybody who has been
good to me...
I am so proud to feel that everybody who is willing
me on has BECOME the journey. it JUST HAPPENED!
I AM JUST THE LEGS!! Rosie.
END
