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Rosie's around the world run adventure,  Welcome to the website of Rosie Swale-Pope.    Nearly home after four and a half years non stop.


April/MayJune 2008 Latest news. Regular updates every Weekend.

Please leave a message or comment in our new Guest Book.

Old guest book archive, please click to view, please use new guest book to leave messages, many thanks.

16 of May 2008 Hi everyone, received this e-mail from Rosie. I thought I would post it up on the website, as it contains much that will interest those following Rosie's world run. There may be a normal news update on Sunday. I am very much looking forward to seeing my mother Rosie as she steps back in the good old UK, on the 18th of June. Regards James

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Photos courtesy of Thorgeir, taken a few weeks ago, many thanks

From Rosie

Hi James, 18th of June is going to be special and happy . I can't wait to see you and it is so very good of you to come all the way to Scrabster.. It means SO much also that Catherine is making such a great effort, and also I think, Geoff and Inna. I do not know who else will be there. 

I'm just going to be happy, and enjoy the moment. It will be a small quite intimate occasion I think...as main event will be finish in Tenby on 25 Aug!!! BUT it will be my first footstep on British soil for nearly 5 years - WHOW!!! I am very conscious of the fact that after Scrabster I still have a long hard run. It is approx 850 miles from Scrabster to Tenby. 

I'm thrilled that Ann is booking 25 Aug BANK HOLIDAY as my HOMECOMING! That is fantastic. I have to run an average of 15 miles a day, with one day off a week, and about three spare days on top! I think to do the last leg down Britain with verve is the best way of honouring my wonderful family and friends, and all my kind supporters. 

Amazing to make it in 4years. 338 (or339 days with leap year? Please v kindly check this) I'll make it 1798 days! Sometimes, in the wilderness I could only do half a mile.. It really has been a struggle, though very well worth it all. Re Kitezh and the Cancer Awareness - I think to do the run down BRITAIN fairly quickly and well is a way of honouring Kitezh and others more than if I dawdled. 

I can and shall return to visit charity HQ etc After the FINISH.. I will not have achieved anything until I get to Tenby, any more than a runner in the London Marathon can ask for a medal before the full 26.2 miles! Please everyone stay in touch with one another and make all go smoothly please not only for run, but those who are supporting me so splendidly at Scrabster...Drumbeg.. Eskdale...Liverpool - and TENBY 

I am going to forward route and mileage very kindly worked out by Catherine some time ago! I thank you all so vvvvmuch. Cannot do much from here...I am very concerned that everybody meeting me en route has a happy time All I shall do is be vvvvvvvVERY HAPPY Too - definitely, I will be dancing for joy as well as running! Not everybody I love can be at every place, but you'll all be in my heart all the way. Blackberry running out of battery. Hope to talk to you all within next days. Love, Rosie.

 

10th of May 2008. Just received this news update from Rosie this morning, she has been hit by bit of a blizzard, Since yesterday's news update.

TONIGHT'S SPECIAL NEWS UPDATE!

There's a blizzard outside. The heavy snow is crashing down and there's an easterly wind. 
The storm from the east is icy. It can't shift us, because Icebird is safely getting buried in the snow..
It will teach me to stop writing about 'sparkling meltwater' and 'first green shoots..'
The birds are in hiding now, just like me. They puff out their feathers, so that they look like round balls. If there isn't shelter they sit still and let themselves get covered in the snow. The snow being such good insulation, is useful for trapping the air between the puffed feathers
Icebird does much the same!
She's has much experience of this, and it's quite ok inside.
I'm so happy and encouraged because Runner's World's wonderfully kind publisher, Steven Seaton, came today to see me. Steven drove through terrible conditions in a small hire car to get here, after flying from the UK yesterday. He took some great photos. He also brought all sorts of food and treats, including 2 pairs of shoes from Saucony and some of Dr Brian Welsby's Breakthrough and other special supplements to help ribs and stamina. Thank you so much to Steven, and to Wendy at Saucony UK, Brian, and Geoff. Geoff yet again marvellously co ordinated the equipment from my amazing sponsors, and got it to Steven before he left.
Steven's visit was only for a few hours. He took a risk. The car was likely to get stuck, so that he'd miss his plane. He was immensely kind to come. It was a huge boost.
So, I'm holed up in Icebird.
IT'S LIKE OLD TIMES!!
I cannot move in this blizzard, but that's not all bad. The ribs are a little bit sore again, and can use the short rest! Rosie

9th of May 2008. Hi everyone. Rosie is well and truly back on the road and is negotiating the remote and stunning mountains of Iceland. The photos were supplied again by Thorgeir who has been so kind and helpful to Rosie, a huge thank you to you. Here is Rosie's latest news update, I hope you enjoy it. Regards James.

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Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:18:03 From:"Rosie"  

Hi Everybody, Thank you so much for helping me over the past weeks. I've just completed the extra 50 miles, and am thrilled. Just a few moments ago I passed the place where I fell. THE RIBS ARE NOW H I S T O R Y!!! I couldn't have done it without all the endless good wishes and spoiling. 

I'm going to celebrate by stopping here to eat my special 'Gunnarsson Pasta With Cream'.. Quite a change from 'Spaghetti a la Rosie with bits of grit from the melted snow water in it! The Myvatn people have still been worrying about me and checking on me. The outstandingly kind and generous Tourist Chief Thorgeir Gunnarsson, even brought the 2 packets of spaghetti with sauce - and also a carton of CREAM, Long Life variety, which he said was an important part of the recipe! ! - I've been saving it as promised until I got here! 

It's been an amazing last few days. I could only wear the harness strap on one shoulder as I left last Friday, as my bad side was still too weak. I kept stopping for a breath. The Namafjall mountain is a steep climb just a couple of miles north of Myvatn. It didn't matter that I was so slow, as my surroundings were awe inspiring to look at.. 

Namafjall is golden brown, It is part of Myvatn's most beautiful and eerie geothermal area Steam pours from a multitude of holes and vents on the mountain. It's known for it's warm Nature Baths, It is also an ancient wonderland of survival that has always made a difference to the hard life around here. Locals still cook bread in the steam. You just dig a little hole, put in the dough, with a stone as a lid, and let it steam for 24 hours. It's very tasty.! 

They also plant potatoes in cooler places, and can do so long before the icy fields away from the area unfreeze.. It is astonishing that potatoes can grow on this moonscape. The steam billowed over us from each side of the road, as we climbed, making the Red Dragon on the Welsh Flag look alive. 

My true love began the other side of the mountain . There is a feeling of privacy with nature here in the lava fields that nothing can surpass. . Silence when I was last here, has been exchanged for the most beautiful sounds and visions. . Greylag geese and whooper swans are lazily enjoying all the melt water. They are nibbling the first green shoots, building up their strength, while their nesting sites unfreeze. There are also some beautiful little snow buntings, the only songbirds of Iceland that actually stay here all winter too. They are deservedly especially chirpy and cheeky, and they've been around me as they seem to like Icebird's presence. 

They are friends! The Icelandic people's name for the snow bunting is 'HE WHO LAUGHS AT THE SUN'. They remind me of the stormy petrels who followed my boat when I was at sea. There is a different season several times a day in Iceland in May. Yesterday morning, I had shorts on for the first time this year.. I washed in the sublime meltwater that was bursting in a crazy happy way from the ice, and already being warmed by the sun. There was still some ice in it, but it felt delicious for a few minutes. 

Then suddenly, the sun on the water yielded to black clouds and shortly afterwards the wind came in with a roaring blast, and was fairly stiff by evening. I had to stop once or twice, but the weather had proved at 11pm, and was still just dusk here. A pale sky became full of stars as the light disappeared at last I had a lovely night run., I bless the fact that I can now wear my harness straps on both shoulders! I'll never take sound bones for granted again. Rosie. END

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2nd of May 2008. Hi everyone, Rosie's phone interview with Martha Stewart for her TV show went very well. A huge thank you to Martha for her interest in Rosie's adventures  It will be broadcast on the fifth of May. Rosie has set off now to continue her run around the world, which she is nearly completed.  But has some tough mountain ranges to get through first. 

She will be landing in the top most part of Scotland on the 18th of June by ferry at a place called Scrabster. With all the mountains communication is a little difficult so I am doing her news update on her behalf. Thorgeir has sent through these fantastic photos which I think really give a feel for what Rosie's little mobile home Icebird is like to live in. Many thanks James.

 

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26th of April 2008. Hi everyone, exciting news that Rosie's going to be interviewed by Martha Stewart over the phone to be shown on her TV show. Rosie has appeared on Martha's show before and being invited to her house. Martha has been very kind to Rosie and they got on very well together. It's been really great that the interest raised by appearing on Martha Stewart show has helped raise the profile of cancer awareness and going to your doctor early. Which is one of the main motivations of Rosie's (nearly complete) run around the world. Here is Rosie's latest news update just in. Regards James

 

Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 17:59:02 From: "Rosie" Subject: NEXT UPDATE -26 April BRIEF UPDATE! 

Thank you everybody so much for your concern for me. It has helped such a lot! The ribs were still hurting last weekend, but they are fine now I have been going for training runs pulling Icebird - It feels GREAT. 

THIS IS MY PLAN! I am going to set off next Wednesday from the Sel Hotel, Asdis's friendly charming place. I shall never forget how she came out to the desert in the freezing cold to find me, when I first arrived in the area.   

I have definitely decided that I'm NOT going to be taken back to where I broke ribs and start again from there. I'm going to RUN ALL THE WAY BACK TO WHERE I FELL, AND THEN KEEP ON GOING!!!!  It's only an extra 50 miles and won't take long.  I want to do it to honour all those who have been so good to me while I was hurt. 

It's also because of the desert's spell, that is still in my head. I HAVE to see what lies beneath those Lawrence of Arabia gleaming white dunes, as the melt starts. The plan is also sensible.  It means I can run for a few days and be fitter by the time I reach a very big mountain pass that lies ahead before coast. 

One has to run this mountain pass fairly fast, between storms. There can be ice and blowing snow here until the end of May.  On Wednesday, I'll be able say goodbye to Asdis and her lovely staff at the Sel Hotel, be to use their landlines to phone my family and friends.. I just can't wait see everyone, very soon! 

As I have written before, the world is a joy, but also a sacrifice. I have desperately missed the people I love . To raise cancer awareness was a war I had to fight. Now it's nearly over.  I am very touched and delighted that Martha Stewart is going to have a chat with me on the phone from New York on Wednesday afternoon just before I set off!! 

It so good of her and the Show's wonderful Associate Producer Charla Riggi, It's lovely to talk with Martha, and also be on her show in brief segments about this world run. It has made a big difference in raising the cancer awareness. They are going to tape the segment on Wednesday, use photos chosen and sent by James and Thorgeir at Charla's request by speed of light! It will be on the Martha Show 5th MAY. Rosie END.

 

 

23rd April 2008, hi everyone, just received the great photos of Rosie forwarded to me by David Chadderton. They were taken a few weeks ago. Regards James

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20th of April 2008. Hi everyone, sorry that the report is a little behind schedule. Today Rosie was taken to see some of Iceland extraordinary landscape and volcanic activity by Thorgeir who has been very kind and helpful to Rosie. He has also supplied me with these great photos. A huge thank you for them. Rosie's ribs were rather painful at the end of the day so she is going to wait a couple more days before heading off. Here is Rosie's news update.

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Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:38:55  From:"Rosie"  

There are billons of sparkling frosty stars shining all over the ground, trying to outdo those in the sky. At 3am on 19 April, it is still several degrees below zero. I have to wrap up and keep looking out, because it is also a most magical time. The Arctic spring light is a promise that the cold cannot break. 

A nearly full moon has a halo that is not round, but is a dazzling little cloud flaring out on all sides. It looks especially enchanting as the sky is already turning a royal blue. It will be dawn by about 4am But best of all, are the very early morning Finishing Parties. These only really began a day or so ago. 

It has to be one of the greatest privileges on earth to be there when the geese, ducks and others actually arrive at Myvatn, at the end of their thousands of miles in migration. It so moving and inspiring. I was lying by myself in the empty car park in my fine little home, nursing my ribs. Then, suddenly there was a loud quacking and other sounds - and the dawn sky was full of birds! I'll never forget it 

There have been more and more of them, especially at this time of day. The latest is the beautiful Red Wing Thrush. He's hopped onto Icebird's roof a few times to check things out, but mostly perches close by on the top of lamp post, singing with all his heart.. 

Apparently Red Wing is singing to reclaim his territory. The top of the lamp post is quite good spot - not far from the store, with its outdoor cafeteria in summer! He keeps an on eye people's plates for crumbs, and dines there for free! I am so excited about starting again on Monday. 

Thorgeir will take Icebird to the spot where I fell - crossing my track. It should be fine, though the kind nurse gave me painkillers, just in case. It's sensible to go now, to keep my legs and the rest of me fit. Because of the brilliant way the harness was mended, I can pull Icebird without putting strain on the ribs. 

I wish the running to be a way of praying, a way of saying thank you to God and to life - and to all fabulous people, brave voyaging birds and the animals - and to the land itself around sweep of the amazing wide world. I want to thank the great Icelandic people, Thorgeir, Asdis, Dr Unnsteinn, the marvelous doctor at the hospital in Husavik, Dagbjort the nurse at the Health Clinic here, Birkir, Dr. Bessi, the exceptionally kind Icelandic dentist, Erla at 66, symbol of the North,, Elva the dedicated Chief Wildlife Ranger and others. 

Above all my endless gratitude to my beautiful BIG family Evie and Pete and kids, James and Janina, Bob Nancy, Victor, Patty, Rich Kevin, Diana, Marianne, Geoffrey, Nicolas.. Catherine and Nedd, Non, Steven, , Mandy Little, Sallyanne Sweeney, Dr Jay Jorgenson and many more. I hope to say thank you through action and some progress. I am so grateful to everybody. Rosie.  END

 

19th of April 2008.  Hi everyone, Rosie's weekly use update, will be on Sunday, tomorrow. Should have some pictures as well, with any luck. All the best James.

 

12th of April 2008. Hi, a huge thank you to all those who have left such kind messages in the guest book. Rosie wanted me to thank you or as she really appreciate them. Here is Rosie's latest report just in. Also I have some great photos that have kindly been forwarded to me. Many thanks James

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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 11:11:14  

From:"Rosie" Subject: THANKS/11 April report/ TALE OF THE TENBY TURKEYS - !! INTRO!!! 

I am overwhelmed by your letters and caring.. I've just had some of these read over the phone to me here in Icebird. I can't believe how many new pages there are In the Guest Book! THANK YOU JAMES FOR MAKING IT POSSIBLE. THANK YOU SAUCONY UK - AND EVERYONE FROM GREAT BRITAIN AND ICELAND TO ALASKA AND WORLDWIDE - YOU'RE GIVING ME FANTASTIC ENERGY TO GET THE RIBS HEALED - F A S T!!!! GOOD LUCK TO ALL THOSE TAKING PART IN THE LONDON MARATHON ON SUNDAY. 

I hope you have a GREAT day! London was my first marathon, and I'll always love it so much. It made dreams I had that seemed quite impossible, all come true, just as it has done for countless thousands of others. You can never tell what will happen when you put on your running shoes! 

TALE OF THE TENBY TURKEYS. I was quite useless at running when I was young. The physical education instructor's eyes were full of disappointment in me , when I was about 13. 'Rose! - you'll never amount to ANYTHING AT ALL!!!!, she often said. 

About 45 years later, I picked up a copy of Runner's World! I learnt about schedules, and learnt that magic can happen in running, just when you think all is lost! I was struggling so hard up a steep hill during a long Sunday run from Tenby to Pembroke, that the fact I'd entered the marathon seemed the sign that I'd gone beyond redemption crazy. 

Then I heard running footsteps.. 2 bounding super fit looking local runners had caught me up. It was Richard Harrison and Pat Curry. 'Hey! You're doing pretty well, they said.. . They ran with me all the rest of the way, slowing down to stay with me! 

They explained that they were members of the excellent local running Club TROT St Clears, but also they were the TENBY TURKEYS!! 'We gobble and G0! I learnt this was just for fun, for our little town Tenby - 'Only runners who have completed a MARATHON, can become a TENBY TURKEY!' They said - YOU CAN BE ONE TOO! AND SO I COULD! Like the Ugly Duckling. Except that they told me I was a Tenby Turkey, much more fun than being a swan!! 

Richard had a habit of singing or reciting some funny poetry at the top of the hills. Any tricky bits, and the pair of would start joking They made me see something forever. Something about going for the extra when the hills are steep.. Right now I'm back inside Icebird, and the wind is howling a lullaby! I'm curled cosily in my PHD down sleeping bag. 

I just like being back (in Icebird) SO much. The ribs will be better fast. I'm WILLING them strong. They wobble just a bit now. I'm camped outside the wonderful Myvatn Tourist Information Centre. Thorgeir and Asdis have offered me beds and the finest accommodation, but now I need to keep focused and harden up again for the road. Amid much other thoughtfulness and help, Thorgeir has had Icebird's harness expertly mended, He has kept it safe and dry in his office - and says to assure you that he'll hide it, if I go before I'm better! BUT THIS WON'T BE LONG Rosie   END !

 

 

7th of April 2008, hi everyone, Rosie has broken some ribs after slipping on ice and landing on the poles of her harness. She is okay and does not want anyone to worry. She is being well looked after but is having to take a a few weeks to recover. This news update from Rosie I received from her just now. The first part was written before she broke her ribs. Regards James

 

Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 12:06:21 From:"Rosie" Subject: 5th April report 

There are only 350,000 people in Iceland, but I think every one I've met here has made a mark on me forever. They all very special. It is impossible to begin writing this story without again thanking - Asdis Johannesdottir, who has been so concerned for me that she calls herself my 'mum', although she is much younger than I am! Thorgeir Gunnarsson, head of Myvatn Tourist information. Dr Unnsteinn Juliusson of Husavik Health Care Centre Erla and everyone at 66 NORTH way back in Akureyri. Alfdis Sigurgeirdottir, a tiny indomitable lady of 82, who came out bent double heading into a gale to invite me in for supper, when I was camped at the edge of the little village of Reykjahlid - and others! It's been quite a week! Progress east of Lake Myvatn was good. 

I made it over the first mountain and through the desert for the first few days that were unforgettable in themselves. Deeper than the struggle is the fact that the desert has always cast a spell on wayfarers, pilgrims, warriors, those fleeing from justice, or those seeking answers, and on ordinary travellers like me! The profound silence at night after a storm, is like a prayer. I find it is one of the most extraordinary and privileged experiences on God's earth You can hear your heart beating. The thoughts of your whole life and many ideas go through your head. 

The roar of the wind begins again, and Icebird becomes a cradle, being rocked! I almost doze off. Then it becomes more. I grab my shoes and get out.. I have to make the decision to tie Icebird up a rocks or piece of ice. Or to take off and get going! Yesterday at about 3am it was still cold even during this first week in April. 

The cabbage I'd bought in store in Myvatn had become frozen, a big lump I kept bumping into as I got ready.. It looked very funny as 'crystalised cabbage' with its vitamins fighting for life! But the Arctic light is coming back. Sometimes this makes no difference. There are many whiteouts when you cannot tell where the land ends and the sky begins. 

The morning was clear. Like the sound of the wild wind that begins after the desert's silence, the first sight of the giant dunes after the very limited visibility was especially beautiful. I thought the dunes looked like those in film of Lawrence of Arabia, except that were made of snow and a most pure shining white. 

The highway was a friend. Like other desert roads, it reminds me of a shipping lane through a solid ocean. As I got going there was the blue ice on it that has been getting thicker as the road gets more treacherous with every few kilometers eastwards. It's the only way. Just a step or so off the road, there is deep, soft up to my shoulders. The morning is bright, but the increasing wind means that the ice, and my feet! - are often tricky to see, as there blowing snow up to my knees.. The wind at this time was also a friend, being a westerly in my favour, shoving me along. 

Sometimes a bit frightening and briskly, but good all the same. I dug my toes in as much as I could. You can put your life in the hands of Sure Foot company's GET A GRIP cleats, but they were ones I'd had for a very long time. They lost some of their spikes on the earlier desert sections of icy razor sharp lava. It maddened me that I had brought extra pairs. 

Van who invented the cleats is a genius, and also would do anything to help you - He even had introduced me to my wonderful dentist Dr Jay Jorgenson, 1000s back on the run, in a an era that I shall never ever forget! My extreme oversight at not replacing them maddened me...I'd kept thinking..'The journey is nearly over..the winter is nearly over! What a mistake! 

It's always all down to equipment. All the equipment I have has been through the wars with me, and has saved me. I hav e never been intrepid at all, it is my equipment that is intrepid. Now it was down to me.. I trod as carefully as I could. I slipped a couple of times. I'd actually stopped for a breath. 

I had dived into the cart.. And had writing the first time of Draft ONE!! - of this report. It read. ' A lot of time is spent trying not to fall over..' I shouldn't say written it down!! It made it come TRUE!!!! Ten minutes later I crashed down and one of my cart's shafts drove into my side, and there was a cracking sound!! - almost a carbon copy of one of the times I broke ribs in Alaska! 

It wasn't too bad. I lay still awhile deciding from the pain quite what to do next. The first vehicle of the day came back, after lying there, and stopped and helped me up. They were most worried about the blood from my cut knuckles, but that was nothing. I said I was fine, though I used their phone to call my great ally Asdis to ask her if I might borrow cleats from her and if so, please could she get them out to me. Alone again, I felt could be Ok. 

I pulled the Icebird slowly for another mile, keeping the harness across my stomach instead of across my ribs. I felt dizzy, but managed to tug Icebird safely off the highway. I thought -Make or Break will be whether I can actually bend to crawl inside the cart.. This was accomplished successfully and made me feel a bit of victory, and rather better!I . 

I was lighting the primus stove to heat snow water for a hotwater bottle to place against the sore spots - when Thorgeir arrived! Thorgeir is fantastic. He come out into the desert to find me a couple of days before to take Photographs for Dave Ro bert's story for the British press, He didn't just bring his camera - he'd brought Mr Pickwick Teabags, dried fish new socks and all kinds of other treats! 

He'd come back as Dave Roberts needed some more photos and instead of the 'photoshoot', took me to his doctor all the way up in Husavik. Dr Unnsteinn Juliusson saw me at Husavik Health Care Centre even though it was the weekend, after a long drive there with Thorgeir. 

He was very kind. I trusted him in the same way I had trusted the Alaska National Guard medics - and knew that his advice was not to try to stop running - but to HELP me get to the FINISH safely - and far more definitely get there that if I disregarded his words and diagnosis!! I have broken two ribs at least near my spinal column, though not dangerous, ie not near a lung, and also have a bit of damage to the ribs at the front. -it isn't a problem. 

It would much worse for example re my run for example, if I had. broken an ankle! The only catch is that he said setting immediately would make the injury less likely to heal quick and could cause more damage. . I DID NOT want to run through pain and everything to take so long to get better that I'd be hobbling on arrival in Britain.I want ICEBIRD and I to arrive proudly in fine style!!!!!!!!!! 

So, It will be about 4 to 6 weeks until everything is healed properly, but if I use pain as a guide I ought to be able to set off with Icebird again in around 2. Weeks. Icebird herself can be mended, shafts and harness have needed better repair than, my faithful duct tape for awhile now. 

Icebird is safe, and also having a very short rest I have been delightfully coaxed by Asdis to spend the first few nights FAST FORWARDING the healing of ribs in the gorgeous Sel-Hotel, but on WednesdayI shall go to live in Icebird beside Lake Myvatn, because I want stay hardy - and Icebird is such dear little home, and we're in this whole epic Iceland Adventure together. 

When I'm better, my friends here will take Bird and I back to the exact spot where I fell! It is only 50 to 60 miles from there to the east coast. Meanwhile, while my ribs heal here the BIRD'S harness is going to be sent to the professional saddlemaker in Akureyri, and her shafts will perfectly mended and wheels and all else will be checked by the great people around here. I will also certainly get new Get a Grip ice cleats as in North East Iceland there's no sign of melt down, the year seems to be going backwards into winter. . VERY DEFINITELY be I'll a bouncing 100 per cent and dancing and doing high kicks for joy as I reach the FINISH in Tenby!!!! 

I am getting more excited than ever about all this. The ribs will make hardly any difference to the plans coming together, which I shall outline in my next report. I think the Icebirds will be doing the dancing on tables all the way down to Wales too! IT WILL BE QUITE A SIGHT!!!! Rosie. END

 

 

1st of April 2008. I have just been sent these great photos, not quite sure who took them but much appreciated as always. James

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